Ngorogoro and Serengeti

Can I just say one word...

Absolutely bloody amazing!

So that's three, it's my blog...

Very long days to get to the Serengeti via the crater but well worth it. The plains were full of the wildebeest migration that we saw crossing the Mara river in Masai Mara, over a million plus 400,000 zebras and uncounted flies and dung heaps.

The camp site was a bit scary. There was a buffalo contending for the kitchen and we weren't allowed to toilet as there were hyena, elephant and lions roaming the site. Buffalo and Hyena did wander through on the night, plus nearby lion was calling (hey - juicy tourists, over here!) which made travellers diarrhea a bit of an ordeal.

We did see a intact leopard from far away so Sharon happy, plus baboons, lions and zebra shagging. Must be spring. Also a Zebra giving birth very slowly.

Ngorogoro was amazing, much bigger than I had expected and absolutely stunning. We saw 2 black rhino rounding out the big 5 in two days so very very lucky. Also had to fight red kites for breakfast and lunch (campsite much safer so easier to dash to squat toilet).

Now back in Arusha and very tired. Dar es Salaam tomorrow, then ferry to Zanzibar for three days - wish us luck. Still have most of the luggage.

Start of next stage

Today we transfer over to the imaginitive traveller overland expedition leg of our journey.

This should be exciting and we are both looking forwards but also sad at leaving Kenya.

Currently in Nairobi in a semi-broken internet cafe so excuse the brevity.

So Mark's safe return was a trifle optimistic in it's phrasing

Mark had to attend a specialist fracture unit in London to get his cheek repaired, CT scans showed a further three fractures that needed attention.

Mark is now doing well and managing cheese burgers and the London tubes so should be considered recovered, if slightly deranged.

I believe that our fractures are healing well, Sharon's splinted finger is now freed and has changed to a much healthier colour (and smell!).

We are, STILL, in Mombasa and currently enjoying:

• dealing with insurance companies -- they do have a heart, it's locked safely in a bank deposit box, not sure who the original owner is...
• rapid fluid based pore cleansing...

I took Sharon out to dinner on the Tamarind Dhow last night, which provided a fantastic meal and a beautiful view of the harbour and river as we cruised. Apologies to our dining partners who got to hear the gruesome details on the attack. And who turned out to work in banking and preventing pharmacy fraud. Small worlds....

On a cautionary note I would like to warn all readers to beware of dangerous African jumping crocodiles!

In Mombasa and it's HOT!

So hot the cold shower has no cold water.

We are not made for this weather, I can see Sharon visibly melting as the sun beats down.

The road in is interesting, pretty good by African standards but LOTS of big trucks barrelling through between Nairobi and the port at Mombasa,. This wouldn't be too bad except for the speed variations; some are doing 20kph, some are doing 80kph ... thundering along as they bear down on you as you attempt to overtake a slower truck whilst all involved are dodging potholes and stray live stock. Entertaining!

Mark has safely returned to London and now gets to play with his 20GB of photo's, this may take a while. Don't forget to do some work!

The road to recovery, and a longer winding route towards Kenyan justice

Apologies for the lack of updates and messages. I have a broken right
arm so typing is a little slower than usual. That also means I can't
reply to many emails and, currently, travel insurance gromits take
precedence (sadly).

We have been discharged from the hospital (on 5th Nov) and since have
recovered a huge amount (except for Sharon's random hair cut, Tony's
reverse monks tonsure has gone - woohoo!). All the stitches are out
and we have finished our respective pill regimes. All concerned are
unrecognizable from two weeks ago, which is a good thing!

Since then we have spent the time:
* Three days with Rae around Lewa - absolutely amazing, including a
trip in a biplane that I probably shouldn't have done. Many thanks to
Rae, Chris, Ross, Hartley, and Ansom for showing us a very pleasant
alternative side to Kenya and apologies to Rossano for the
indecision... and 7 white rhino and a very congenial Klip-springer
* Three days in Samburu during the short rains. Some amazing game
hiding in the lush vegetation including leopard paws, tails and flanks
(but few entire felines to Sharon's displeasure).
* A day in Nanyuki court testifying against muppet #1, who despite
being found with Marks atm receipts and cash stuffed in his grundies
pled "not guilty". The trial was very different to anything I have
ever experienced, surprisingly so.
* Two days in Nakuru, marvelling at the flamingos and hordes of white
rhinos plus baby leopard tail (yes, again not entire, Sharon spitting
tacks).
* Now back in Nairobi - Mark flies out tomorrow and we carry on to
Mombasa to continue the recuperation.

Apologies I can't reply to your emails but rest assured we are ok and
I will reply when we can get internet access plus more time.

A week in Nanyuki Cottage Hospital

It would be fair to say that this stop was not planned on our predeparture itinerary.

 

Let me start by stressing that everyone is ok and there are no long term health effects, and also let me apologise for any typos.  This is being composed by my left hand as my right arm is broken.

 

We were attacked by 6 thugs on the return trip from a trek to the Mau Mau caves.  Fortunately our guide managed to play possum and then escape to pass warning or this could have been very serious.  The thugs battered us, then robbed us in a very haphazard fashion, taking wallets, 1 camera but leaving watches, jewellery and many other valuables. 

 

Sharon, Mark and I have been recovering at the lovely Nanyuki Cottage Hospital and are due to have stitches removed today so are feeling much more optimistic, especially as the urgent dental work has also been sorted.

 

Apologies that I can't respond to all your messages as my typing is limited, but thank you very much for your thoughts and best wishes. 

 

We have cancelled the Gorilla expedition due to our injuries but plan to continue in Kenya, we are currently dealing with travel insurance which is proving to be only slightly less painful than being mugged.  Yes, our sense of humour is still intact so we are all ok!

 

One of the gits was captured so next Tuesday we get to testify at his trial.  The Kenyan judicial system is quite different to anything I have experienced before but I am hopeful they will capture the other 5 brain dead assailants too. 

 

I will update again next week and let you all know how we are doing. 

 

Cheers,

Anthony

Very, very lucky...

We're still going, and so is the laptop, amazingly.

After two break downs (burst waterpipe, hole in fuel tank) and some
minor surprises on the money front, "how much?" which seem to be an
African refrain, we still think it is all worth it.

Two days ago we saw two male cheetahs making a kill on the road from
Narok into Masai Mara (outside the park, before you pay the entrance
fees, and almost hidden off the road). Mark has sharp eyes and
spotted them. We stayed there for 90 minutes whilst the cheetahs ran
and hid from a Masai who we then bribed to go away. He of course
interpreted this as an excuse to hang around! The cheetahs came back
and took turns standing guard whilst feeding. Gorgeous!

Yesterday we saw the wildebeast migration across the Mara river.
Twice, in one day, and only because Mark and I have poor bladder
control and had to use the facilities at Hippo point (everyone else
had left 5 minutes earlier). Absolute carnage, 4 out of 10 failed to
make the other bank and floated down the river as corpses. Meanwhile
thousands of other wildebeast stampeded into the jam of thrashing,
drowning, exhausted animals. Madness.

Amusingly the Kenyan army, rather than guarding the border, instead
escort tourists to see the crossing sites and the wildebeast milling
around Hippo point. Nice little sideline but they did spend all
afternoon with us while we gloried at the spectacle, so we gave them a
lift back to their base (ak47's, bolt action rifles and all).

Today we did a balloon safari, VERY expensive but did see two lions
making seperate kills in 5 minutes.

I think if we see nothing else for the next two weeks we would still be lucky.

Tonight we have to burn many DVD's so we can actually take some more
photo's. Expect us to burn the midnight oil, after 3 nights of 4
hours sleep, this is very tough.

Can anyone hear the puny violins playing???